Clarity ferm

[Jeltz]

I'm getting a bit fed up with chill haze so I have ordered a vial of clarity ferm.

Any tips for its use?

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Just add it to your brew at the same time pitching your yeast
Cheers
Tim

Just use it, it's brilliant, and as an side effect it also reduces gluten

[Jeltz]

Awesome. I'm doing a pale ale next week so it should be here by then. Might keg with gelatin as well, if I'm making it more attractive to people with a gluten intolerance I better compensate by excluding the vegans or I'll have none left.

I use it to make beer that friends who are gluten intolerant. Its good, and there is no difference to beer with out it. I have coeliac friends who have enjoyed my beer with no ill effects. If your going to do this dont put wheat in it!

As people have said just add it when you add the yeast.

Just a thought do you use whirlflock/ protoflock/ irish moss in your boil?

[Jeltz]

yes whirflock and cold crash.

I serve through a Maxi Chiller and get haze but when the beer warms up a bit the clarity is fine so its the chill haze I want to get around for nothing other than aesthetic purposes.

Jeltz do you get chill haze with all your brews or one particular type, Ive found its my light coloured beers that get the haze,with or without heavy dry hopping Most of my beers drop dead bright when at room temp, English IPA coloured beers and darker tend to stay that way when cold, unlike the blond beers

[Jeltz]

well I don't see it in porters but the rest get it

I see Ed over at Eds beer site just did a post about haze in commercial beer. I personally don't like the look of clear beer, looks artificial like something that came out of a factory. Like white sliced bread.

Very few beers should be hazy, white beers and wheat beers (unless Krystal) for example. Generally most beers, brewed with good brewing technique, should/will be bright. Hop haze is unavoidable in beers brewed with massive amounts of late hops, unless you resort to filtering, although the use of a 'chill haze preventer' will reduce that level without adversely affecting the beer flavour.

Beware brewers that say "Yes it's hazy, it's supposed to be that way, it's craft!!" for they are snake oil salesmen, pedalling an inferior product brewed with a lack of care and knowledge!!

Please don't call my beer an inferior product because I don't put micro plastic or fish guts in it. I don't filter, whirlpool or stick it in a fridge for weeks either. It's fine really, just has a little haze in my blonde beers...and cross my heart after all these years... I prefer it that way.

1 further question Nic
Do you add any gypsum to your mash/boil?
Cheers
Tim

[Jeltz]

I do often put gypsum in the mash.

Please don't call my beer an inferior product because I don't put micro plastic or fish guts in it. I don't filter, whirlpool or stick it in a fridge for weeks either. It's fine really, just has a little haze in my blonde beers...and cross my heart after all these years... I prefer it that way.

Well you labelled mine as

looks artificial like something that came out of a factory. Like white sliced bread.

And I rarely have to do any of those things to ensure a bright haze free beer. I opt to ferment in a fridge to control the fermentation temperatures, and I drop the temperature at the end of fermentation to simulate 'cellaring' ...exactly what is done in traditional breweries.

Too much crap beer is produced under the 'Craft' label that is just poorly brewed, doesn't make a clear haze free beer produced using traditional techniques and good attention to detail poor either

Very few beers should be hazy, white beers and wheat beers (unless Krystal) for example. Generally most beers, brewed with good brewing technique, should/will be bright. Hop haze is unavoidable in beers brewed with massive amounts of late hops, unless you resort to filtering, although the use of a 'chill haze preventer' will reduce that level without adversely affecting the beer flavour.

Beware brewers that say "Yes it's hazy, it's supposed to be that way, it's craft!!" for they are snake oil salesmen, pedalling an inferior product brewed with a lack of care and knowledge!!

What about the Merican craft brewers, all their beer seems to be hazy, is it because they just hop the hell out of them? Their malty brews seem to be clear as you would expect.

If you are brewing highly hopped ales then surely hop haze is a feature, whether commercial or homebrew?

I hop my light beers at around 5g per liter so I don't think it's a hop haze Tim, it's bona fide chill haze, the beer is as bright as a well made beer until it goes in the fridge, then over 24 hrs it gets a haze. Its only happens to the light beers, I use phosphoric acid and gypsum to treat the water,m sometimes Irish Moss, I don't have a fridge to do a prolonged cold crash and anyways I like drinking my beers fresh as prefer the flavour. I've made the same kind of beer maybe 75 times on current rig and can't get it any clearer and I am deeply suspicious that people who do get theirs clear resort to the dark arts of fish guts and microplastics. It's such a quick ànd cheap fix to get around Ale man's comment about well made beer.

Some more questions come to mind about this issue are the people who are getting a chill haze doing a 60 minute boil or a 90 minute boil ? and are they getting a good rolling boil or just a gentle simmer?
Also what about cooling ie are you using a quick method to cool after your boil ?
Another thought is how long they are mashing for?
And what is the effect of epsom salt on the finished beer with regard to clarity?

I hop my light beers at around 5g per liter so I don't think it's a hop haze Tim, it's bona fide chill haze, the beer is as bright as a well made beer until it goes in the fridge, then over 24 hrs it gets a haze. Its only happens to the light beers, I use phosphoric acid and gypsum to treat the water,m sometimes Irish Moss, I don't have a fridge to do a prolonged cold crash and anyways I like drinking my beers fresh as prefer the flavour. I've made the same kind of beer maybe 75 times on current rig and can't get it any clearer and I am deeply suspicious that people who do get theirs clear resort to the dark arts of fish guts and microplastics. It's such a quick ànd cheap fix to get around Ale man's comment about well made beer.

Chill haze is a difficult item to identify the cause of and would probably need several brews to work through changing things one by one.

I stopped using conditioning finnings a long time ago, I use kettle finnings though (whirlfloc protofloc) and chill the wort and I started using clarity ferm during fermentation to reduce gluten (I was on a Paleo diet trip at the time), I don’t highly/late hop either and I crash cool (around 0-4C) and store/condition cool (around 8C) and it’s very difficult for my beer to get any haze. In fact it’s so bad [good?] that my Hefe’s turn themselves into krystalweizen after a few weeks, which is really annoying (got to try some unmalted wheat for that).

I should add that I also treat my water in an attempt to meet different profiles.

You could try Clear Choice malt, it's a base malt designed to clear up at low temperatures. Hazy beer isn't inferior though, it's not the 1970's.

[Jeltz]

I'm using a braumeister but had the same when I did 3 vessel the boil is rolling and chilling is with an immersion coil. These days I tend to step mash starting at 20 mins 63° then 10 minutes 65° then 30 minutes at 67° and mash out at 77°C for 10 minutes and sparge with about 6L but again its an issue which I've had whatever the mash profile. Serving temperature is via a maxi cooler so about 5°C I guess.

I hop my light beers at around 5g per liter so I don't think it's a hop haze Tim, it's bona fide chill haze, the beer is as bright as a well made beer until it goes in the fridge, then over 24 hrs it gets a haze. Its only happens to the light beers, I use phosphoric acid and gypsum to treat the water,m sometimes Irish Moss, I don't have a fridge to do a prolonged cold crash and anyways I like drinking my beers fresh as prefer the flavour. I've made the same kind of beer maybe 75 times on current rig and can't get it any clearer and I am deeply suspicious that people who do get theirs clear resort to the dark arts of fish guts and microplastics. It's such a quick ànd cheap fix to get around Ale man's comment about well made beer.

Chill haze is a difficult item to identify the cause of and would probably need several brews to work through changing things one by one.

I stopped using conditioning finnings a long time ago, I use kettle finnings though (whirlfloc protofloc) and chill the wort and I started using clarity ferm during fermentation to reduce gluten (I was on a Paleo diet trip at the time), I don’t highly/late hop either and I crash cool (around 0-4C) and store/condition cool (around 8C) and it’s very difficult for my beer to get any haze. In fact it’s so bad [good?] that my Hefe’s turn themselves into krystalweizen after a few weeks, which is really annoying (got to try some unmalted wheat for that).

I should add that I also treat my water in an attempt to meet different profiles.

Your hefe going clear could have been due to it boiling for lon enough.... I know it sounds backwards but it happens. Just a thought.

I hop my light beers at around 5g per liter so I don't think it's a hop haze Tim, it's bona fide chill haze, the beer is as bright as a well made beer until it goes in the fridge, then over 24 hrs it gets a haze. Its only happens to the light beers, I use phosphoric acid and gypsum to treat the water,m sometimes Irish Moss, I don't have a fridge to do a prolonged cold crash and anyways I like drinking my beers fresh as prefer the flavour. I've made the same kind of beer maybe 75 times on current rig and can't get it any clearer and I am deeply suspicious that people who do get theirs clear resort to the dark arts of fish guts and microplastics. It's such a quick ànd cheap fix to get around Ale man's comment about well made beer.

Chill haze is a difficult item to identify the cause of and would probably need several brews to work through changing things one by one.

I stopped using conditioning finnings a long time ago, I use kettle finnings though (whirlfloc protofloc) and chill the wort and I started using clarity ferm during fermentation to reduce gluten (I was on a Paleo diet trip at the time), I don’t highly/late hop either and I crash cool (around 0-4C) and store/condition cool (around 8C) and it’s very difficult for my beer to get any haze. In fact it’s so bad [good?] that my Hefe’s turn themselves into krystalweizen after a few weeks, which is really annoying (got to try some unmalted wheat for that).

I should add that I also treat my water in an attempt to meet different profiles.

Your hefe going clear could have been due to it boiling for lon enough.... I know it sounds backwards but it happens. Just a thought.

Could be something to look at, I just do a standard 90min boil, mash is stepped at 40/63/71/78. Yeast is WLP380 or WLP300 or Wyeast equivalent, it could be the crash cooling or conditioning over a long period of time so yeast has completely dropped, although usually drunk in 4-6 weeks, got one in the fermentor at the moment so see how it goes, could be water profile.

I've got the opposite problem to cold haze

I do a 60 min boil, I use an electric boiler and get a good roll mostly and a 60 to 90 min mash depending on circumstances, think I prefer the results of the 90 min better. Ive never used Epsom salts so might give that a go. I've not done a step mash for years but should give it a go for flavour if nothing else. I chill my wort by putting my milk churns in a plastic storage box of cold water with a towel over the top. Takes about an hour.I've used all types of base malt. I get lovely clear wort draining through my bazooka most of the time. Im proud of the beer that results and over the years have developed a pavlovs dog reaction to clear beer because it's never mine and often doesn't taste as fresh or as nice. I made a crystal clear Berliner weisse once, so there is no justice in the world of brewing as in life in general.